Centella Asiatica has anti-inflammatory properties, promotes wound healing, and stimulates collagen synthesis. At the same time, the plant strengthens the skin barrier and improves moisture retention in the stratum corneum.
- Wound healing: Triterpenes like Asiaticoside accelerate the regeneration of damaged skin.
- Anti-inflammatory: Madecassoside reduces the activity of inflammatory messengers.
- Barrier strengthening: Studies with 5% extract show measurably less water loss through the skin compared to placebo.
Topically applied, Centella is considered well-tolerated and effective. However, caution is advised with oral intake, especially at high doses over a long period.
Key Insights
Centella Asiatica acts through pentacyclic triterpenes to provide anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, and collagen-stimulating effects, with the strongest evidence in wound healing and scarring.
| Topic | Details |
|---|---|
| Main Active Ingredients | Asiaticoside and Madecassoside regulate collagen synthesis and anti-inflammation through different signaling pathways. |
| Strongest Evidence | Wound healing and scar modulation are well-supported by several controlled studies. |
| Topically Safe, Orally Cautious | Topical application is considered well-tolerated, oral preparations should only be taken after consulting a doctor. |
| Consider Concentration | Studies typically use 0.1% to 5% Centella extract, depending on the product form and goal. |
| Suitable Products | Rammilav offers Cica serums like the Beauugreen Cica Well Serum for daily use. |
Table of Contents
- What is Centella Asiatica? Plant, INCI Names, and Main Active Ingredients
- How Does Centella Work on a Molecular Level and What Do Clinical Studies Show?
- When Does Centella Asiatica Specifically Help in Cosmetics and Skincare?
- How to Properly Integrate Centella into Your Skincare Routine
- Is Centella Asiatica Safe and Are There Side Effects?
- Expert Assessment: When is Centella Particularly Useful?
- Sources
What is Centella Asiatica? Plant, INCI Names, and Main Active Ingredients
Centella Asiatica is a tropical swamp plant that usually appears in cosmetic products under the INCI names “Centella Asiatica Extract”, “Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract”, or “Centella Asiatica Herba”. In German-speaking regions, you might know it as Wassernabelkraut or by its trade name Gotu Kola, while in the cosmetics world, the short form “Cica” has also become established.
Responsible for its effects are four pentacyclic triterpenes: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, and their acid forms Asiatic acid and Madecassic acid. These substances regulate various processes in the skin, from collagen formation to inflammation regulation.
In skincare products, you encounter Centella in several forms:
- Whole plant extract in serums and creams, usually low-dosed for daily use.
- Isolated triterpenes in concentrated formulations, often used in ointments after procedures.
- Concentrations vary depending on the study, with clinically tested specialty products potentially using higher values.
How Does Centella Work on a Molecular Level and What Do Clinical Studies Show?
The effects of Centella Asiatica can be traced back to a few signaling pathways that occur in fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Madecassoside dampens NF-κB activity, thereby reducing the release of inflammatory cytokines. Asiaticoside, on the other hand, activates the TGF-β/Smad pathway, which stimulates fibroblasts to produce more collagen. A recent review on molecular mechanisms and clinical evidence also describes effects via the JAK/STAT3 pathway, which is involved in regulating wound healing processes.
These mechanisms explain why Centella consistently performs well in studies on several skin parameters:
- Collagen synthesis: Hydroxyproline levels, a marker for newly formed collagen, noticeably increase in wound healing studies after Centella application.
- Hydration and barrier function: A six-month study with 0.1% Madecassoside combined with 5% Vitamin C showed solid improvements in firmness and elasticity.
- Transepidermal water loss: 5% Centella extract significantly reduced TEWL values in clinical measurements compared to placebo.
The strength of evidence is not the same everywhere. The data on wound healing and barrier strengthening are the most solid, with several controlled studies showing consistent results. For anti-aging endpoints like wrinkle depth, the data is more moderate, often from smaller studies with combined active ingredients.
In summary by active ingredient: Madecassoside is primarily anti-inflammatory and soothing, while Asiaticoside acts more as a collagen stimulator. Both usually work together in practice, as full extracts rarely contain only one triterpene fraction.
When Does Centella Asiatica Specifically Help in Cosmetics and Skincare?
The applications of Centella Asiatica can be sorted by strength of evidence, which is worthwhile before purchasing a product.
- Post-care after microneedling, laser, or peeling: well-documented, creams and ointments with Centella reduce redness and accelerate the regeneration of the damaged skin barrier.
- Scar modulation: well-documented, monographs describe an inhibitory effect on excessive collagen proliferation, which can be relevant for keloid tendency.
- Acne aftercare and blemishes: moderately documented, the anti-inflammatory effect supports the calming of irritated, blemished skin but does not replace targeted acne therapy.
- Anti-aging and skin elasticity: moderately documented, usually studied in combination formulations with Vitamin C or peptides.
- Cellulite and systemic effects: preliminary, the data here is significantly thinner than for the other indications.
For post-care, ointments and thicker creams are suitable, while for daily anti-aging routines, serums with lower but regularly applied concentrations are the better choice.
How to Properly Integrate Centella into Your Skincare Routine
The order in your routine determines how well Centella can work. Here's the best approach:
- Cleanse the skin with a mild, pH-neutral cleanser before applying active ingredients.
- Apply a Centella serum to damp skin, especially if your skin is sensitive or irritated, this step is a priority.
- Seal with a cream that additionally binds moisture, such as with ceramides or hyaluronic acid.
- Always finish with sunscreen in the morning, as regenerated skin is more sensitive to UV radiation.
Centella pairs well with Vitamin C, Niacinamide, and Retinol, even soothing irritations these active ingredients often cause. Caution is advised with very high acid concentrations, as the combined irritation can still be too strong.
Pro Tip: Apply Centella products after microneedling only once the skin is no longer open, usually after 24 hours. Immediately afterward, a simple saline solution is often sufficient. For sensitive skin, look for formulations with liposomes or phytosomes, as these carrier forms release the active ingredient more gently.
Is Centella Asiatica Safe and Are There Side Effects?
Topically applied, Centella is considered well-tolerated. Sensitization reactions are rare, but a patch test before first use remains sensible, especially if you have known sensitivity to plant extracts.
For oral intake, the situation is more nuanced. Animal studies and in vitro investigations provide conflicting evidence: some show a dose-dependent liver-protective effect, while others discuss hepatotoxicity at very high oral doses. These concerns primarily affect high-dose dietary supplements, not cosmetic skin applications.
The risk of liver-damaging effects is discussed in the literature exclusively in connection with very high oral doses. There is no such indication for topical, cosmetic use.
Practically, this means for you:
- Only take oral Centella preparations after consulting a doctor or pharmacist, no self-medication.
- Avoid oral preparations during pregnancy and breastfeeding unless medically advised.
- Seek medical advice if topical application leads to persistent redness or an allergic reaction.
- For creams and serums, orient yourself on study concentrations between 0.1% and 5%, while clinical studies with oral capsules work with clearly defined, medically supervised doses.
Expert Assessment: When is Centella Particularly Useful?
Centella is particularly suitable for post-care after microneedling, laser, or chemical peeling. Its anti-inflammatory effect noticeably reduces redness, and experience from aesthetic dermatology confirms this effect in practice.
The evidence is not equally strong everywhere:
- Solidly documented: Wound healing and scar modulation, supported by several controlled studies.
- Moderately documented: Anti-aging effects like elasticity and hydration, mostly tested in combination preparations.
- Preliminary: systemic effects through oral intake, where robust human data is still lacking.
Clinical study registers also show that research on Centella formulations continues, such as on new carrier systems designed to improve active ingredient absorption.
Brief Editor's Assessment
Centella has established itself as a reliable component in daily care and post-care after aesthetic procedures. How strongly it works in individual cases, despite good study data, always depends on the individual skin reaction.
Centella Products for Your Routine
If you're looking for a product right after reading, Rammilav's range includes Cica formulations tailored to the effects described here, such as the Beauugreen Cica Well Serum for daily soothing of irritated skin. For combination with collagen-supporting active ingredients, the Enough Collagen Moisture Essential Cream is also suitable, binding moisture and supporting the skin barrier.
For severely inflamed skin, pronounced scars, or after major medical procedures, no cosmetic can replace professional medical evaluation. For daily care and post-care after minor procedures, a look at the Beauty Guide from Rammilav is worthwhile, where you can find further recommendations for serums, repair creams, and aftercare products from Korean cosmetics.
Sources
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology - PMC
- Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. in skin health and cosmeceuticals: mechanisms, clinical evidence, and advanced delivery systems | Zenodo
- Centella Asiatica (Cica): Effects, Application & Tips | MOOCI
This selection is not exhaustive but covers the central evidence on the effects of Centella Asiatica.
This article contains general information and does not replace consultation with a qualified doctor. Consult a qualified medical professional about your personal situation before acting based on this content.
